As I perused the innumerable vegetable, fruit, meat, and seafood stands of the monstrous La Vega Market (the size of a city block), there were several sights and sounds I was taking in. The vendors packing up and sweeping the floors, the savory dishes being served in the food stands, the dogs running free trying to find the next freebie. There were also a few things I was thinking. The first was "Where is this fabled fresh salmon for $10 a kilo?" The second was, "I'm going to miss this place." By 'place', I didn't necessarily mean La Vega (I will miss La Vega, though), but rather Chile.
To me, La Vega just oozes Chilean culture like not many other places in Santiago can. Vendors and their regulars chatting about the latest futbol match or political scandal, while Cumbia blasts from behind the stand. Old men and women sitting in groups (separated by gender, of course) chatting and playing cards. The young couples, attached at the hip, casually strolling up and down the aisles seemingly looking for nothing at all. The last Saturday I was in Chile, I ate at the food stands in La Vega, and a rag tag marching band just came right through the area playing boozy tunes. What an excellent way to go out!
It's moments like this these past few weeks that have made me realize how much I'll miss Chile. I've had a great year here with great friends. Some highlights include visiting the small beach town of Pichilemu, going to Lollapalooza music festival, seeing that masterful churango player at El Persuigidor Jazz Club, ALL of the Cumbia concerts I attended, traveling and camping in the South for my summer vacation, seeing Torres del Paine, skiing in the Andes, my weekend in Valparaiso, New Year's Eve in Valparaiso, and having two of my best friends from university visit me. Of course, there were plenty more.
Recently, I've been thinking about the ways in which the general personality of the Chilean people vibes and does not vibe with my own personality. Just a couple thoughts here:
One main way in which we vibe: Most Chileans I have had any sort of contact with have been very shy at first. This includes my students, friends, acquaintances, etc. As Chileans will tell you, and a theory that I condone, is that the geographical isolation has made them more reserved. With the Andes in the East, the Pacific Ocean in the West, the desert in the North, and eternal rain in the South. However, this shyness isn't just for foreigners; it also extends to their fellow Chileans! I've never been at a party where two Chileans who didn't previously know each other immediately strike up conversation after introducing themselves (while the opposite seems to be a rather common occurrence with the Argentinians and Brazilians I have met). It usually takes a few drinks before Chileans loosen up to be that social!
One main way in which we don't vibe: It's all culturally relative, but I thought that Santiaguinos (people of Santiago) were very unconscientious in some ways. On a superficial level, people would often stand in the middle of the sidewalk or sit in the middle of the stairs on a busy stairwell despite their very obviously being an obstacle to everyone else. Another example is when someone drops something and doesn't realize that they have dropped it, no one else around will inform them they have done so. Ultimately, I think that this is more of a symptom of being in a big city and the lack of community that inevitably goes along with that. Because on the flip side of this, Chileans are incredibly close with their families and I think most would do anything for their families. Nonetheless, this was probably the most frustrating day-to-day experience I had with the Chilean demeanor.
The lists go on, but I can happily say the things I miss and the things I vibed with concerning Chile greatly outnumber the things I will not miss and the things I didn't vibe with.
Hilariously, I have noticed small things that changed in my daily habits after spending a year in Chile. For example, I put more butter, salt, and mayonnaise on food than I ever used to before (which used to be practically none at all). I couldn't say specifically what deeper ways Chile has changed me this soon after leaving Chile, but what I do know is that living in a different culture invariably deepens your worldview and the way in which you see yourself in the world.
Chi-chi-chi, le-le-le. Viva Chile!
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