I have found that when I witness the performance of a virtuosic guitarist, there usually is a real lack of emotional depth that comes along with it. This is quite the opposite experience I had last night with a charango performance I saw at a Jazz club last night.
As I mentioned in my last post, there is a traditional Chilean instrument called a charango which is kind of like a mix of a guitar and a mandolin. I went out to the Jazz club, El Perseguidor, with a couple of friends on Saturday night. When we walked in, there was a full jazz band, and we sat down and ordered our drinks while enjoying their sounds. After a little while, the band leader announced that his band was going to take a 5 or 10 minute break, but in the meantime he was going to have some friends play for us. He introduced them (a charangoist and a guitarist) and they thanked the jazz band for letting them play. What proceeded made my jaw drop. This guy was just phenomenal. He had long fingernails on his picking hand which allowed him a nimbleness already made difficult from the small size of the instrument. He used the charango as a percussion instrument on occasion, strummed the strings as a flamenco guitarist would other times, and finger picked individual strings at other times. It's hard to describe in words, but it was a very emotional AND virtuosic performance. I think this was one of the first times I have felt like I have a given a real sense of the passion and richness of Chilean culture. With three songs, they really stole the entire night's affair.
I'm still not entirely familiar with the different kinds of Latin American music that are prominent here in Chile, but I will reiterate what I said in an earlier post that Cumbia is some of the funnest live music I have ever heard. I'm excited to hear other types of homegrown music...but until then...
Heavy metal is HUGE here. Every day when I walk around, I see tons of long haired, often bearded dudes walking around dressed all in black with metal shirts ranging from more well-known acts like Iron Maiden and Megadeth, down to really underground bands like Immortal Rites and Deeds of Flesh. In my previous post, I mentioned that Chileans were under the rule of Pinochet, a dictator, until about 1990/1991. My theory is that during heavy metal's golden age (1980s), the genre was basically non-existent here and was suppressed. It's like the hole left by that period is now being lived. That gives a whole new meaning to what I mentioned in an earlier post when I said the 80s in general, whether it be fashion or music, is really big here. Though, this could just be BS and it could just be like it is/was in the US. That people often revert back to trends of earlier generations, but I feel like hearing 80s music CONSTANTLY at the supermarkets here gives weight to my earlier argument.
Also, I think that heavy metal operates in some of the same ways that punk music does in that it acts as an aesthetic that gives power to the powerless. Metal is often popular in countries where there is a religious paradigm that dictates social and political, countries where there are great economic disparities, and countries where the definition of masculinity is not the same as it used to be (some people see metal as escapist music for men, to express instinctive and archaic physical and emotional tendencies that is now not accepted in society, which I tend to agree with). Not to make this into a dissertation, but I think all three of the previous circumstances are applicable to Chile. I can't wait to go to a metal show!
Other notes:
Confoundingly, Chileans tend to walk at a slower pace than Americans, but they are some of the most reckless and impatient drivers I have ever seen. I always look right and left several times before crossing, but sometimes, that doesn't seem to help! As mentioned in my previous post, Chileans operate on event time, and thus it is unnecessary to hurry anywhere on foot. However, I was told that Chileans, more or less, think that a car is made to get you somewhere fast, so when it doesn't, it's irritating! Makes sense enough.
Friday, July 29, 2011
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Chi-Chi-Chi le-le-le! Viva Chile!
This week I started teaching my English classes. So far, all of the students have been really nice and pleasant to work with. In one class that I was filing in for (the regular teacher was ill), there was a discussion question that used the word "taboo", so I checked to make sure all of the students understood what that meant. After some abbreviated answers from the students, I clarified, "Something that is taboo in your culture is something that you should not talk about. Or only talk with close friends and family about." I said something that is taboo (first thing that came to my mind, of course) in America is sex. One of the younger men in the class said, "REALLY?!" I kind of laughed and said, "Yes, despite what you see on TV and movies, we really only discuss it with close friends, and in most cases not with family." Then one woman (maybe in her late 30s/early 40s) said, "Religion and politics are taboo here" (which is absolutely true...if you're not Roman Catholic, then you can just get out of town...and the years of dictatorship are almost never discussed openly*), and she said, "I don't think race is as taboo here as it is in the United States...you know, with the Negroes?" I had heard that the n-bomb is dropped here without much fuss, but I hadn't heard it yet, especially in a class. I was momentarily shocked, but then continued, "Yes, that's true...now moving on..." or something like that.
The other day, I went to go get my photograph taken for my Chilean work permit. I went to this small shop (about the size of my bedroom) in a mall that the administration at Bridge-Linguatec (the company I teach for, I'll abbreviate to "Bridge" from now on) recommended. I went there and the guy who runs it and photographs people is quite a bit more flamboyant than most Chileans. He has wild greying hair down to his shoulders, a colorful scarf, and moves very sharply and quickly like a small animal. It was like I was being photographed for a magazine or something. He was obviously very passionate about his job and made sure I looked like a million bucks!
The weekend before last, a woman who works at Bridge told us her husband's band, Los Sicarios del Ritmo (The Assassins of Rhythm...what an awesome name), were playing at a club in the bohemian Bella Vista area. I went and what an awesome time it was! They play a style of music called Cumbia that is a combination of traditional Latino music (primarily Columbian) and African tribal rhythms. Newer Cumbia bands also include some hints of reggae and hip-hop. The band was awesome and I danced my butt off the entire time. They had a vocalist, trumpeter, saxophonist, bassist, drummer, auxiliary percussionist, and a charangoist (a charango- think of a mandolin crossed with a guitar).
I've watched a few soccer matches while here in Chile. Chileans go absolutely mad for soccer. Not being a soccer fan beforehand, I definitely feel the need to become one now. The national Chilean team recently got to the semifinals of the Latin American Cup but lost against Venezuela. Our Spanish teacher said that one positive thing about losing a big soccer match is that people don't riot, haha. I thought that was hilarious. Whenever their national soccer team wins a game, people crowd into the crowd into Baquedano (which is the center of the city) and mayhem generally ensues.
I've always wondered how strange it is that the biggest international sport is one of the least popular sports in the United States. For the citizens of almost every other country in the world, it seems like the national soccer team is the one remaining, common source of patriotism. I'm sure there are tons of theories/reasons why, but it's still odd to me that Americans just aren't that big into soccer (maybe the recent success of the women's national soccer team will change some minds...)
This weekend I'm going to move into an apartment within 15-20 minutes walking distance of my place of work. I will be living with a Chilean man (age 29) and an American woman (age 25, from Boston). They seem like a lot of fun and it should be great!
I am seriously considering teaching English as a second language as a career. I feel really comfortable in front of the classroom (whether I have one student or, as I did in China, 30-40) and I think I have an ability to create and execute logically flowing lesson plans. On top of that, I think that I good at recognizing when students don't understand concepts and can bring them up to speed. It just all seems relatively natural to me. I'm kind of thinking about continuing to go around the world teaching in foreign countries (as money permits) for the next 5 or so years and then possibly getting my Masters in teaching ESL. We shall see!
Some Chilean trivia:
-If you order a hamburger, hotdog, or sandwich there is often the choice to get your order "Italiano". "Oh", so you might think,"I'm going to get some good Italian meat with, like, prosciutto as an extra topping." At the very least, you might think, "Oh, so I'll be getting a slice of mozzarella rather than a slice of cheddar." Not quite. "Italiano" means that you get the terrific combo of guacamole, mayonnaise, and tomato (sometimes ketchup or Ahi sauce (pepper sauce) plopped on your delicatessen dish. "Why?" you might ask. Because guacamole is green, mayonnaise is white, and tomato is red, just like the colors of the Italian flag, you silly billy!
-PDA (Public Displays of Affection) are not looked down upon here as they are in the United States. Young couples can often be seen making out in public, especially in public parks. This reminded me of my Chinese experience, because one could always see young Chinese couples on my campus being intimate (or fighting). From what I've been told, it's for the same reason. The Chinese students often had as many as 8 other roommates, so they couldn't be private with a significant other. Similarly, considering some Chileans live with their parents here until their mid-twenties, they bring their physical intimacy to the public eye.
-The other day I read a blurb in a textbook about clock time versus event time. Cultures usually operate on one or the other. Those who live by clock-time are often punctual, and schedule by specific times or time frames ("I'll call you at 5:00 p.m."). Those cultures who operate by event time usually have a better night life. They schedule events in relation to other events ("I'll meet you after dinner."). Americans definitely operate on clock time, and I am definitely a good example of that. Chileans (and Chinese) operate on event time, which is why no one ever arrives on time. We have had a teaching practice almost every day of my training class, and Chileans volunteer to be students. I'm not sure if we ever had a volunteer student arrive on time. I've been hearing the echo of my Foreign Affairs Director in China saying, "Later, later..."
*Strangely, there are tons of Chileans who sympathize with Augusto Pinochet (the dictator who ruled Chile from 1974 until 1990). Pinochet introduced a lot of economic reforms that still are applied today (such as the privatization of previously state-run agencies) and the scaling back of welfare. His economic policies drastically lowered inflation in Chile and it is largely attributed to his economic policies that Chile is where it's at right now (#1 economy in Latin America from what I understand). Usually it's the more conservative old and young who sympathize with him and his policies (including the businessmen and women whom I teach), but the younger generations seem to be a bit more liberal and thus point out the cruelty of his reign (Pinochet interned, tortured, and killed thousands of political opponents).
The other day, I went to go get my photograph taken for my Chilean work permit. I went to this small shop (about the size of my bedroom) in a mall that the administration at Bridge-Linguatec (the company I teach for, I'll abbreviate to "Bridge" from now on) recommended. I went there and the guy who runs it and photographs people is quite a bit more flamboyant than most Chileans. He has wild greying hair down to his shoulders, a colorful scarf, and moves very sharply and quickly like a small animal. It was like I was being photographed for a magazine or something. He was obviously very passionate about his job and made sure I looked like a million bucks!
The weekend before last, a woman who works at Bridge told us her husband's band, Los Sicarios del Ritmo (The Assassins of Rhythm...what an awesome name), were playing at a club in the bohemian Bella Vista area. I went and what an awesome time it was! They play a style of music called Cumbia that is a combination of traditional Latino music (primarily Columbian) and African tribal rhythms. Newer Cumbia bands also include some hints of reggae and hip-hop. The band was awesome and I danced my butt off the entire time. They had a vocalist, trumpeter, saxophonist, bassist, drummer, auxiliary percussionist, and a charangoist (a charango- think of a mandolin crossed with a guitar).
I've watched a few soccer matches while here in Chile. Chileans go absolutely mad for soccer. Not being a soccer fan beforehand, I definitely feel the need to become one now. The national Chilean team recently got to the semifinals of the Latin American Cup but lost against Venezuela. Our Spanish teacher said that one positive thing about losing a big soccer match is that people don't riot, haha. I thought that was hilarious. Whenever their national soccer team wins a game, people crowd into the crowd into Baquedano (which is the center of the city) and mayhem generally ensues.
I've always wondered how strange it is that the biggest international sport is one of the least popular sports in the United States. For the citizens of almost every other country in the world, it seems like the national soccer team is the one remaining, common source of patriotism. I'm sure there are tons of theories/reasons why, but it's still odd to me that Americans just aren't that big into soccer (maybe the recent success of the women's national soccer team will change some minds...)
This weekend I'm going to move into an apartment within 15-20 minutes walking distance of my place of work. I will be living with a Chilean man (age 29) and an American woman (age 25, from Boston). They seem like a lot of fun and it should be great!
I am seriously considering teaching English as a second language as a career. I feel really comfortable in front of the classroom (whether I have one student or, as I did in China, 30-40) and I think I have an ability to create and execute logically flowing lesson plans. On top of that, I think that I good at recognizing when students don't understand concepts and can bring them up to speed. It just all seems relatively natural to me. I'm kind of thinking about continuing to go around the world teaching in foreign countries (as money permits) for the next 5 or so years and then possibly getting my Masters in teaching ESL. We shall see!
Some Chilean trivia:
-If you order a hamburger, hotdog, or sandwich there is often the choice to get your order "Italiano". "Oh", so you might think,"I'm going to get some good Italian meat with, like, prosciutto as an extra topping." At the very least, you might think, "Oh, so I'll be getting a slice of mozzarella rather than a slice of cheddar." Not quite. "Italiano" means that you get the terrific combo of guacamole, mayonnaise, and tomato (sometimes ketchup or Ahi sauce (pepper sauce) plopped on your delicatessen dish. "Why?" you might ask. Because guacamole is green, mayonnaise is white, and tomato is red, just like the colors of the Italian flag, you silly billy!
-PDA (Public Displays of Affection) are not looked down upon here as they are in the United States. Young couples can often be seen making out in public, especially in public parks. This reminded me of my Chinese experience, because one could always see young Chinese couples on my campus being intimate (or fighting). From what I've been told, it's for the same reason. The Chinese students often had as many as 8 other roommates, so they couldn't be private with a significant other. Similarly, considering some Chileans live with their parents here until their mid-twenties, they bring their physical intimacy to the public eye.
-The other day I read a blurb in a textbook about clock time versus event time. Cultures usually operate on one or the other. Those who live by clock-time are often punctual, and schedule by specific times or time frames ("I'll call you at 5:00 p.m."). Those cultures who operate by event time usually have a better night life. They schedule events in relation to other events ("I'll meet you after dinner."). Americans definitely operate on clock time, and I am definitely a good example of that. Chileans (and Chinese) operate on event time, which is why no one ever arrives on time. We have had a teaching practice almost every day of my training class, and Chileans volunteer to be students. I'm not sure if we ever had a volunteer student arrive on time. I've been hearing the echo of my Foreign Affairs Director in China saying, "Later, later..."
*Strangely, there are tons of Chileans who sympathize with Augusto Pinochet (the dictator who ruled Chile from 1974 until 1990). Pinochet introduced a lot of economic reforms that still are applied today (such as the privatization of previously state-run agencies) and the scaling back of welfare. His economic policies drastically lowered inflation in Chile and it is largely attributed to his economic policies that Chile is where it's at right now (#1 economy in Latin America from what I understand). Usually it's the more conservative old and young who sympathize with him and his policies (including the businessmen and women whom I teach), but the younger generations seem to be a bit more liberal and thus point out the cruelty of his reign (Pinochet interned, tortured, and killed thousands of political opponents).
Friday, July 1, 2011
Los Hijos de Valiente: A Most Un-Chilean weekend
As I'm sitting here drinking beer and watching the latest addition of the colossal Cleveland Indians/Cincinnati Reds rivalry (yea, I know nothing about baseball, but the two Ohioans next to me are oozing team spirit), I realize that I may be on my way into a very American weekend. Our trainer, Carissa, has invited us to a 4th of July BBQ on Sunday afternoon. She said that only a select few of Chileans (boyfriends and girlfriends) were invited and definitely no Canadians. Carissa said that whenever you have a BBQ here, the Chileans will just bring nothing but meat-all kinds of it-but nothing else. Maybe a bag of chips. No other sides.
Sidenote: The Chileans love their white bread, coffee, sweets, and fatty foods. They have this bar food dish called chorillana which is basically the equivalent of supreme nachos...but with fries. So you get tons of greasy fries topped with hard boiled eggs, onions, peppers, ham/bacon/chicken, cheese, etc. I haven't tried it yet, but it sounds like heaven coming in, and hell going out. Chileans also love NesCafe (instant coffee). The coffee section at the grocery store is completely dominated by instant coffee which is totally confounding, because South America is renowned for their coffee! Even with their obsession with NesCafe, they jokingly refer to it as "No es Cafe" ("It's not coffee"). I'm going to get to the bottom of this... (no pun intended, har har).
Santiago so far seems to be highly American/European in many ways. Just like how I perceived Beijing to be while in China. I feel like it might be the same way with big cities in many parts of the world. It just means that I just have to look harder for the "real" Chile underneath it all. I also think this will also come by making friends with Chilenos and Chilenas which is only a matter of time.
One crazy story not meant to scare Mom or Grandma:
One of my fellow classmates chose to seek out residency outside of the host families that our program offers. He found a place that was cheaper and went with it. The head of the household was a Belgian woman who has fostered several Chilean boys and hosted several foreign exchange students. Last weekend, my classmate found out that one of the boys he has been living with had murdered his brother (who was also living at the house) a little over a year ago over a video game. You can actually read about the incident here (as well as several other news sources if you look up "playstation murder Santiago Chile"):
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8650606.stm
Needless to say, my classmate felt a little uncomfortable living in that situation, especially not have been informed of that incident before moving in. He left as discretely as possible (including having an argument over the phone with his host and telling the boy who murdered his brother that he was leaving because of the noise). Luckily, he is now out of that situation and glad to be out of it.
Happy 4th of July!
Sidenote: The Chileans love their white bread, coffee, sweets, and fatty foods. They have this bar food dish called chorillana which is basically the equivalent of supreme nachos...but with fries. So you get tons of greasy fries topped with hard boiled eggs, onions, peppers, ham/bacon/chicken, cheese, etc. I haven't tried it yet, but it sounds like heaven coming in, and hell going out. Chileans also love NesCafe (instant coffee). The coffee section at the grocery store is completely dominated by instant coffee which is totally confounding, because South America is renowned for their coffee! Even with their obsession with NesCafe, they jokingly refer to it as "No es Cafe" ("It's not coffee"). I'm going to get to the bottom of this... (no pun intended, har har).
Santiago so far seems to be highly American/European in many ways. Just like how I perceived Beijing to be while in China. I feel like it might be the same way with big cities in many parts of the world. It just means that I just have to look harder for the "real" Chile underneath it all. I also think this will also come by making friends with Chilenos and Chilenas which is only a matter of time.
One crazy story not meant to scare Mom or Grandma:
One of my fellow classmates chose to seek out residency outside of the host families that our program offers. He found a place that was cheaper and went with it. The head of the household was a Belgian woman who has fostered several Chilean boys and hosted several foreign exchange students. Last weekend, my classmate found out that one of the boys he has been living with had murdered his brother (who was also living at the house) a little over a year ago over a video game. You can actually read about the incident here (as well as several other news sources if you look up "playstation murder Santiago Chile"):
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8650606.stm
Needless to say, my classmate felt a little uncomfortable living in that situation, especially not have been informed of that incident before moving in. He left as discretely as possible (including having an argument over the phone with his host and telling the boy who murdered his brother that he was leaving because of the noise). Luckily, he is now out of that situation and glad to be out of it.
Happy 4th of July!
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